And here's what it looks like in 3D view. We want to bring this 2D sketch into the 3D world, and we do that by
extruding it. Click on the sketch on the left, then click on the "Pad" button.
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>3) Pad the sketch</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-04-extrude-done.png"alt="Done with the pad">
<asideclass="notes">
And here's what it looks like. Note that we have a 3D shape now, and we've defined that it's 2.0mm tall. Note
that in this image I've named this box "Board shield" for ease of remembering what it is.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>3) Pad the sketch</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-04b-extrude-done.png"alt="Done with the pad">
<asideclass="notes">
The only setting of interest is the Length field here, which indicates how much padding to add. Since the USB
slot is about 2.4 MM thick, and we want to have some tolerance between the case and the PCB, let's make it 2.0
mm.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>3) Pad the sketch</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-05-extrude-angle.png"alt="Pad at an angle">
<asideclass="notes">
And finally, here's what it looks like at an angle. And that's it! Repeat steps 2-3 until you're done.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-06-begin-carve.png"alt="Create sketch for pocket">
<asideclass="notes">
Click on the face that you want to add a pocket to, and click "Create sketch"
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-07-pocket-sketch.png"alt="Complete sketch for pocket">
<asideclass="notes">
Create the sketch, ensuring it's fully constrained just like before. Click "Close" once you're done.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-08-create-pocket.png"alt="Create a pocket">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a pocket by clicking the "Create pocket" button.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-09-pocket-created.png"alt="Create a pocket">
<asideclass="notes">
There, a nice pocket.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-09b-pocket-created.png"alt="Create a pocket">
<asideclass="notes">
The length here is 0.8mm, because the PCB is 0.6mm, plus some tolerance.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-10-pocket-pcb-hidden.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
And here's what it looks like if we hide the PCB.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-10a-pocket-passives-start.png"alt="Click on face for sketch">
<asideclass="notes">
Click on the face that we want our sketch...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-11-passives-sketch.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a sketch for the passives...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-12-passives-pocket.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a pocket for the passives...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-13-mcu-sketch.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a sketch for the MCU...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-14-mcu-pocket.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a pocket for the MCU...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-15-edge-sketch.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a sketch for the edge LEDs and components...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-16-edge-pocket.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a pocket for the edge LEDs and components...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-17-mounting-peg.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
We'd like to create a mounting peg, so create a circle.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-18-mounting-peg-pad.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
And pad the mounting peg sketch.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-19-alignment-bump-sketch.png"alt="Pocket with no PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
Create a sketch for the passives...
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-20-alignment-bump-pad.png"alt="Creating a pad for the alignment bump">
<asideclass="notes">
And now pad the alignment bump to bring it into 3D.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-21-guiding-slots-sketch.png"alt="Creating the sketch for the guiding slots">
<asideclass="notes">
Here are the guiding slots. Note that they're not strictly necessary, and in fact the 0.4mm thickness is
bordering on the smallest feature that our 3D printer can create. A good rule of thumb is that injection molding
doesn't work so well below 0.5mm, but we're bending that rule a bit here because this piece is very small, and
it's not load-bearing.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-22-guiding-slots-pad.png"alt="Finished case without PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
If we turn off the PCB, here's what the finished product looks like.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade">
<h3>4) Repeat as necessary</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-23-case-with-pcb.png"alt="Finished case with PCB">
<asideclass="notes">
And here's what the finished product looks like with the PCB enabled.
</aside>
</section>
<sectiondata-transition="fade-in slide-out ">
<h3>5) Check with reference parts</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-case-creation-24-usb-port.png"alt="Test with models">
<asideclass="notes">
This is a USB port I got from a vendor. Somewhere off Digikey. They provide STEP files for just this sort of
thing. You can move the camera around and make sure the part will actually fit. Of course, 3D printing is
generally the best option, but this gives you an idea of hw well it'll fit before printing.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h3>Here's what we sent to the factory</h3>
<imgdata-src="img/freecad-sent-to-factory.png"alt="STEP model we sent to factory">
<asideclass="notes">
Here's what we sent to the factory. FreeCAD generated this STEP file, and we just emailed it to them. They received the file, along with a sample PCB, and we got to talking. They understood roughly what the usecase was, and they had some suggestions. They made some modifications to the STEP file and sent it back to me for approval.
I'm really happy with this. You can see the changes they made. They added the lifters on the bottom, which is what causes those holes. You wouldn't normally notice them, but they give those latches that let the PCB snap into place. They also added the grips on the side, which are just kind of a nice touch. Overall they managed to quickly understand the design and make some simple improvements. And then I was able to approve their design decisions, including the extra cost incurred from the additional lifters, and get the tool made.
From this point, they took a few weeks to do the first draft of the mold, called T0. This is like a beta release: everything should be there, but it needs tuning. There will be flow defects, and it will be unpolished. The tool is still relatively soft at this point, and edits can be made easily. A good plastics vendor will have a functional tool after T0, but it's not at all uncommon to have to do T1, T2, and more. This test shot will usually be in black, because it shows lots of defects very easily.
</aside>
</section>
</section>
<section>
<section>
<h1>Real World Fun</h1>
<h2>And the problems you'll face</h2>
<asideclass="notes">
Now that we know the basics of how plastic is made, we can see some of the consequences in the real world. While
many of these designs aren't open source, it shouldn't be too difficult to work backwards and imagine how the
tool was built.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h1>Clothes peg</h1>
<asideclass="notes">
This is a clothes peg from my house. It's very cheap. You can clearly see parting lines along the side here. The
texture is effectively free, because this piece is entirely flat. There aren't any fancy tool options here -- no
lifters or sliders or anything complicated. You can see the ejector pin marks on the inside, and there are two of
them. You can also tell where the gate was, because there's a little bit of material left over. The plastic also
has a very rough surface, indicating they probably aren't cleaning the tool very often. One clever piece is that
both halves of the clothes peg are identical.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h1>Aircon Remote (Back)</h1>
<asideclass="notes">
This is a very important tool in Singapore. It's the air conditioning remote. They've added some text on the
backside here. Curiously, there's something that seems to violate our "no overhangs" policy. And indeed it does.
How do they do that? They use something called a "slider". Basically, a piece that starts out in one position
when the plastic flows, and then slides out of the way to let the piece eject. Sliders add a lot of cost, because
they quickly complicate the steel tool. You can have multi-stage sliders to get all sorts of complicated
features, but it can get very expensive very quickly.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h1>Aircon Remote (Front Cover)</h1>
<asideclass="notes">
Here's the inside of the front cover. It can slide up and down, which means it has a lip on the side. They used a
slider here, too. In fact, the slider left small marks here. This particular piece is great because you can see
the ejector pin marks, the gate mark, and the slider marks. They were also kind enough to indicate that this came
from the second cavity in the mold. They could probably hide some of these marks if they put more effort into it,
but it's really very little payoff. Most people won't notice, and it doesn't impact the functionality of the
product.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h1>Wine bottle opener</h1>
<asideclass="notes">
This wine bottle opener has one very visible parting line. Interestingly, it's overmolded, which is where one
piece gets two shots, and the overmolded piece hides the parting line along the top. You can do some pretty cool
thigns with overmolding, because the base doesn't even need to be plastic. You can overmold anything that will
fit inside of a plastic tool. That includes circuit boards, if you don't need to worry about heat or debug pins.
This is how most cables are made, where they put the wires directly into the injection molding tool.
</aside>
</section>
<section>
<h1>Kinder joy</h1>
</section>
<section>
<h1>iPhone 3G</h1>
<asideclass="notes">
This one is particularly fun. It's an old iPhone 3G, back before Apple went completely crazy with CNC-milling. In
addition to being particularly shiny, which you remember requires polishing after the part comes out of the mold,
you'll also notice the lack of parting lines. That's because Apple polished them off.